Non-Slip Loop Knot: Free-Swinging Action for Jigs and Lures
How to tie the non-slip loop knot, step by step, and when a loop beats a tight knot. Wrap counts by line test, loop size, and why it belongs on jigs, topwaters, and streamers.
- 01
Tie a loose overhand in the line
About six inches from the end, tie a loose overhand knot in the line. Do not tighten it.
- 02
Pass the tag through the lure eye and back through the overhand
Pass the tag end through the eye of the lure or jig, then bring it back and through the overhand knot, entering from the same side it left.
- 03
Wrap the standing line
Wrap the tag around the standing line. Five turns on light line, fewer as the line gets heavier, three on 40 lb and up.
- 04
Back through the overhand
Bring the tag back through the overhand knot, entering from the same side it exited the last time.
- 05
Seat it and size the loop
Moisten the knot, pull the tag to snug the wraps, then pull the standing line and the lure apart to close the knot. Trim the tag. The loop stays open.
Non-Slip Loop Knot
Leaves a fixed open loop at the eye so the lure swings freely instead of being pinned by a tight knot. Transforms the action of jigs and hard baits.
step 1/4Tie a loose overhand in the leader six inches from the tag, then pass the tag through the lure eye.
gotchaMatch the number of wraps to leader test: five on light, three on 40 lb plus. Too many wraps in heavy fluoro will not seat and the loop closes.
Compare it with the other 7 knots: strength, difficulty, line type
The non-slip loop knot ties a lure to the line with a small, fixed, open loop at the eye. That loop is the whole point. A tight knot pins the lure to the line, so the line’s stiffness steers it; a loop lets the lure pivot freely and do what its designer built it to do. On jigs, walking topwaters, suspending jerkbaits, and streamer flies, that is the difference between a bait that swims and one that is being dragged. It keeps 88 percent of line strength on our knot chart, so you are not giving anything up for the action.
How to tie the non-slip loop knot
Five steps. The only part that takes care is the direction you pass the tag back through the overhand.
Step 1: Tie a loose overhand in the line
About six inches from the end of the line, tie a simple overhand knot and leave it open. Where you tie it sets the size of the finished loop: closer to the end means a smaller loop.
Step 2: Through the lure eye and back through the overhand
Pass the tag end through the eye of the lure, jig, or fly. Bring it back and pass it through the overhand knot, entering from the same side it left. If it goes in from the other side, the knot will not lock and the loop will slip closed.
Step 3: Wrap the standing line
Wrap the tag around the standing line. The count depends on line test: five turns on light line, fewer as the line gets heavier, and three on 40 lb and up. Stiff, heavy line will not seat over too many wraps.
Step 4: Back through the overhand
Bring the tag back through the overhand knot, again entering from the same side it last exited. This traps the wraps.
Step 5: Seat it and size the loop
Wet the knot. Pull the tag first to snug the wraps down, then pull the standing line and the lure apart to close the overhand against them. Trim the tag. The loop stays open and will not close under load, which is what “non-slip” means.
When a loop beats a tight knot
A tight knot like the Palomar or improved clinch is the right choice whenever the bait should follow the line exactly: bait hooks, drop shots, swivels, and anything where you want the most direct hookset. A loop is the right choice when the bait is meant to move on its own.
Jigs. A jig on a loop falls more naturally and kicks further on each hop, because the head can tip and swing instead of being held level by the line. This is where we notice the loop most, especially on light jig heads with soft plastics for largemouth bass and walleye.
Walking topwaters. A walk-the-dog bait such as the Zara Spook needs to swing its nose from side to side on every twitch. A tight knot fights that; a loop or a split ring lets it happen. Walk-the-dog retrieves for redfish and snook in shallow water are where this difference shows up most.
Jerkbaits and crankbaits. Many hard baits come with a split ring on the eye for the same reason. If yours has one, tie a tight knot to the ring. If it does not, a loop gives you the same freedom.
Streamer flies. Streamers jig and swim more on a loop, which is why fly anglers have used this knot for decades.
Line and leader
The non-slip loop is a mono and fluorocarbon knot. In slick braid the wraps do not grip reliably and the loop can creep closed or pull out, so we do not tie it in braid. If you fish braid as your mainline, tie the loop in your leader, a fluorocarbon such as Seaguar Blue Label, and join the leader to the braid with a double uni or an FG knot.
Common mistakes
Passing the tag through the overhand from the wrong side. The knot looks finished but the loop slips closed under the first real load. Enter on the same side the line left, both times.
Too many wraps in heavy line. The wraps stack up instead of seating, and the overhand never closes properly. Drop to three turns at 40 lb and above.
A loop that is too big. A big loop can catch the hook point or foul around the eye on the cast. Keep it small, about the size of a pencil eraser.
Not wetting it. Like every knot on mono and fluoro, a dry cinch costs strength through friction heat. Moisten it before you pull it down.
Where it fits in the rig
In the Rig Studio the loop knot appears when you focus the lure stage, alongside the Palomar and uni for baits that want a tight connection. The engine checks your lure’s weight against the rod’s casting window and its running depth against where the fish are; the knot decides whether it swims properly once it gets there. The knot comparison chart has every other connection.
Knots used here
The connections the builder flags at lure.platform. Step through each one, or compare all 8 knots.
Palomar Knot
Tied with doubled line, so the load runs on two strands through the eye. The strongest simple terminal knot and the default for braid.
step 1/4Fold six inches of line into a doubled loop and pass the loop through the eye.
gotchaPeople run out of loop halfway through. Start with six inches of doubled line, a foot total, or you cannot pass the loop over the hook.
Uni Knot
One knot that does almost everything: terminal tackle, spool arbors, and, doubled up, line-to-line. Works on braid where the clinch will not.
step 1/4Pass the tag through the eye and fold it back parallel, forming a long loop.
gotchaYou can leave it as a loop knot by not sliding it fully down. That is a feature for lures that need free swing, and a bug on a bait hook.
What is a non-slip loop knot used for?
Tying a lure, jig, or fly to the line with a small fixed loop at the eye instead of a tight knot. The loop lets the bait swing and pivot freely, which changes the action of jigs, hard baits, topwaters, and streamers.
Is the non-slip loop knot strong?
Yes. We use 88 percent retained strength for it on our chart, a little above the improved clinch. It is a strong knot that happens to leave a loop, not a compromise.
Can you tie a non-slip loop knot with braid?
We do not. Slick braid does not seat reliably in the wraps and the loop can slip closed or pull out. Tie it in a mono or fluorocarbon leader, and join the leader to the braid with a double uni or FG.
How many wraps for a non-slip loop?
Fewer as the line gets heavier. Five turns on light line, three on 40 lb and up. Too many wraps in heavy, stiff line will not pull down, and the loop ends up closing instead of the knot seating.
How big should the loop be?
Small. A loop about the size of a pencil eraser is plenty for most lures and jigs. The loop size is set by where you tie the first overhand, so slide it closer to the lure before you tighten it for a smaller loop.